At every exhibition, the same thing happens. A customer picks up a colour she loves, holds it, hesitates, and asks me — will this suit me? After years of doing this, I can usually answer before she finishes the question. Let me share what I’ve learnt, because most colour advice you’ll read online was clearly not written with Indian skin in mind.
Start with your jewellery box
Simplest test I know. If gold jewellery makes your face glow and silver looks a bit dull on you, your skin is warm-toned — which is true for most of us. If oxidised silver is what lights you up, you lean cool. This one observation sorts out half your colour decisions.
If you’re warm-toned
Mustard, rust, burnt orange, olive, warm cream — the whole spice-market palette is yours. I’d be careful with stark white and icy pastels; they tend to look flat against golden undertones. Off-white and cream do the same job much more kindly.
If you’re cool-toned
Emerald, deep blue, magenta, plum. Jewel colours, basically. Rani pink was invented for you. Where a warm peach might wash you out, a rose pink will do wonders.
For deeper skin — please stop playing safe
This is the one I feel strongly about. So many women with gorgeous deep skin come to my stall and reach only for browns and dull, “safe” colours, because someone once told them bright colours are not for them. It’s completely backwards. Deep skin carries saturated colour better than anyone — hot pink, cobalt, haldi yellow, bright orange. Some of my most stunning customers are the ones I finally convinced to try the bright rack.
When in doubt, do the daylight test
Hold the fabric under your chin near a window, in daylight, not shop lighting. If your face looks fresher, that’s your colour. If you suddenly look like you slept badly, put it back — however beautiful it looks on the hanger. The kurti has to flatter your face first; everything else is secondary.
And there are the colours that flatter practically everybody — rust, deep teal, emerald, maroon, rani pink. There’s a reason Indian textiles have used them for centuries. When a customer is completely unsure, I start there and I’ve never once been wrong.
Confused about your own palette? Send me a photo in natural light on WhatsApp and tell me which jewellery you wear more. I genuinely enjoy this part of the job.